© Penelope Gan – All Rights Reserved – the circular house of relic (Vatadage), Polonnaruwa, SRI LANKA

Polonnaruwa, Sri Lanka’s splendid medieval capital was established as the first city of the land in the 11th Century, A.D. It replaced Anuradhapura that was plundered, made desolate, and laid hopelessly bare to the invading armies from South India.

Polonnaruwa reached a dazzling, but pitifully brief zenith, in the 12th century and though like Anuradhapura, where it was ravaged by invasions in the preceding centuries, there is much evidence and remains of the old grandeur and glory. The ruins of Polonnaruwa sits on the east shore of a large artificial lake, the Topa Wewa Lake or Parakrama Samudra (the Sea of Parakrama); created by King Parakramabahu I (1153-86) who reign during Polonnaruwa’s golden age.

Within the city’s rectangular walls stands palace buildings, a bath area and clusters of dozens of dagobas, temples, various other religious buildings and a monk sanctuary that stretches for miles. The centerpiece – the Dalada Maluwa (the hall of the Tooth Relic) contains 12 magnificent buildings in a sacred precinct. The most famous of the ruins, if not the most most famous vatadage (circular house of relic) across Sri Lanka is the Vatadage in Polonnaruwa, with four Buddha images facing the cardinal directions circling around the centerpiece stupa. Evidence of the Buddhas being created out of white marble and one covered with gold leaf is still mildly visible.

.

.

© Penelope Gan – All Rights Reserved – Stupa, Polonnaruwa, SRI LANKA

The dagobas or stupas of Sri Lanka are the largest brick structures known to the ancient world, rendering them significant not only to Buddhism but also a significant architectural and engineering development for the island. The construction of stupas were considered acts of great merit for men as the purpose of stupas were mainly to enshrine relics of the Buddha.

.

Despite its shapes evolving from a ‘paddy heap’ to the ‘pot and bell’ and later on an ‘onion’, design specifications for the entrances are consistent in that they are laid out in a manner that ensures that their centre lines point to the relic chambers. As time progress, an ornamented vahalkadas was added to the design of stupas around the 2nd Century AD. The four vahalkadas face the cardinal points, ornamented with figures of animals and flowers. The pillars on the either side of the vahalkadas features figures of lions, elephants, horses or bulls; depending on the direction of the structure.

.

Later stupas were covered with a coating of lime plaster; combination applied depended on availability of materials and the requirements of designs. Typically materials includes lime, clay, sand, pebbles, egg whites, plant resin, glues and even the saliva of white ants!

.

.

.

Although Dambulla is thought to have been inhabited from as early as the 7th to 3rd Century BC, with Ibbankatuwa prehistoric burial site situated 3 kilometers from the cave temples, Dambulla is most famously known for providing refuge to King Valagamba (also known as Vattagamini Abhaya) for 14 years during his exile from the Anuradapura kingdom. Buddhist monks meditating in the caves of Dambulla at that time provided protection to the king from his enemies. As a results, when King Valagamba returned to the throne at Anuradapura kingdom in the 1st Century BC, he built the magnificent rock temple at Dambulla as a gratitude to the monks in Dambulla.

.

The Dambulla Cave Temple is the largest and best preserved cave temple complex in Sri Lanka where major attractions today spreads over five caves containing 153 Buddha statues, 3 statues of Sri Lankan kings and 4 statues of god and goddess (including two statues of the Hindu gods, Vishnu and Ganesh. In addition to statues, the Dambulla Cave Temple has murals covering an area of  2,100 m² depicting Lord Buddha and his life, which includes Buddha’s temptation by the demon Mara and Buddha’s first sermon. The statues and paintings in the Dambulla caves dates back to the 1st Century BC, but have been repaired and repainted in the 11th, 12th and 18th Century AD.

.

- – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - -

.

Time line of the Caves

7th to 3rd century BC – early inhabitants

1st century BC – Painting and statues

5th century AD – the stupa was built

12th century AD – addition of the statues of Hindu gods

20th century AD – UNESCO restoration and lighting

.

.

.

.

Terms

The whirling dervish is known as a Semazen. Dervish itself means doorway to god or enlightenment. Sufism is derived from the word for a rough, woolen cloak, its material designed to diminish the superficial pleasures of worldly existence. Mevlevis are the order of Sufis that perform the whirling dervish dance, refered to as the Sema. The leader of the group is called the Sheikh; he often stands in the middle of the room, representing the sun, while the other members dance around him in imitation of the cycles of the planets. The repetition of god’s name is the Zikr.

.

Dervish Clothes

Whirling dervishes sport a conical hat and a white shirt and skirt. The skirt is made of billowing material that flows out and around the dancer as they spin. The head gear symbolizes the need to seal off one’s ego in order to connect to God and the universe. The skirt represents a shroud but also the sky, which is revealed as the dancer removes their black cloak and begins the journey towards spiritual enlightenment.

.

A former Orthodox Patriarchal basilica between 360 to 1453, and later a mosque from 1453 t0 1931, the Hagia Sophia has been transformed to a museum since 1935.

Constructed under the orders of the Byzantine Emperor Justinian, the Hagia Sophia whose name originates from the Greek Ἁγία Σοφία, which means “Holy Wisdom” is often mistakenly referred to as Sancta Sophia (Saint Sophia). Designed by Greek physicist Isidore of Miletus and mathematician Anthemius of Tralles, Hagia Sophia is  famous for its massive dome and was considered the epitome of Byzantine architecture; notwithstanding that it was the largest cathedral in the world for nearly a thousand years before the completion of Seville Cathedral in 1520.  The church also contains a large collection of holy relics as it was the seat of the Patriarch of Constantinople and the religious focal point of the Eastern Orthodox Church for close to a century.

However, with its conversion into Aya Sofya Mosque by the Ottoman Turks under Sultan Mehmed II, the bells, altar, iconostasis, and sacrificial vessels were removed and many of the mosaics were plastered over. This was in part due to the excessive damage Hagia Sophia sustained as a result of it being the focal point of the Sultan’s troops of unbridled pillage shortly after the city was sieged and defenses collapsed. Islamic features such as the mihrab, located in the apse where the altar used to stand, pointing towards Mecca were constructed in addition the the minbar and four minarets. Additions continued by subsequent Sultans over the centuries with the most famous restoration being ordered by Sultan Abdülmecid. Eliciting a total of 800 workers between 1847 and 1849, under the supervision of architect brothers Gaspare and Giuseppe Fossati, the domes and vaults of the Aya Sofya was consolidated, it’s columns straightened and decorations of both the interior and exterior revised; mosaics in the upper gallery were cleaned, chandeliers were replaced by new pendant chandeliers and new gigantic circular-framed disks  with inscriptions of Allah, the Prophet Muhammad, the first four caliphs Abu Bakr, Umar, Uthman and Ali, and the two grandchildren of Mohammed - Hassan and Hussain - by calligrapher Kazasker İzzed Effendi were installed.

With its final transformation to a Museum in 1935, the carpets were removed, revealing marble floor decorations such as the Omphalion that had gone unseen for centuries. Likewise, for the mosaics that had been covered by white plaster. However, the Hagia Sophia is far from being save with its deteriorating structure, some of which is visible; water leaks over the fragile frescoes and mosaics due to its visibly cracked copper roof. What’s not visible to a visitor admiring its beauty is the rising ground water that has raised the level of humidity within the monument, creating an unstable environment for its stone and paint. Conservation work by the World Monuments Fund (with the help of American Express in securing grants) took place between 1997 and 2002 on its roof, followed by efforts by the Turkish Ministry of Culture who worked on the preservation of the dome’s interior till 2006. More funds and work is however still needed on other areas of Hagia Sophia.

© Penelope Gan – All Rights Reserved – The Mevlevi Sema Ceremony, Mevlevi Order, Istanbul, TURKEY

Known more commonly as the Whirling Dervishes due to their famous practice of whirling as a form of remembrance to God (dhikr) in initiating the Sufi path (dervish), the Mevlevi Order  (Persian: مولويه - Molavīyeh) is a Sufi order founded in Konya, Turkey by the followers of Jalal ad-Din Muhammad Balkhi-Rumi, a 13th century Persian poet, theologian and Islamic jurist.

Following his death, the Mawlawi order was founded in 1273 by his successor, Hüsamettin Çelebi. The Mawlawi believe in performing their dhikr in the form of a “dance” and musical ceremony known as the Sema, which involves the whirling, from which the order acquired its nickname. The Sema represents a mystical journey of man’s spiritual ascent through mind and love towards “Perfection”. Turning towards the truth, the follower grows through love, deserts his ego, finds the truth, and arrives at the “Perfect”. He then returns from this spiritual journey as a man who has reached maturity and a greater perfection, able to love and to be of service to the whole of creation.

Rumi has said in reference to Sema:

For them it is the Sema of this world and the other.
Even more for the circle of dancers within the Sema
Who turn and have, in their midst, their own Ka’aba.

The origin of Sema is credited to Rumi where it narrates the story of Rumi walking through the town marketplace one day, when he heard the rhythmic hammering of the goldbeaters. It is believed that Rumi heard the dhikr, “la elaha ella’llah” in Arabic “لا اله الا الله”, or in English, “There is none worthy of worship but Allah(God)“, spoken by the apprentices beating the gold, and was so filled with happiness that he stretched out both of his arms and started spinning in a circle. With that, the practice of Sema and the dervishes of the Mevlevi Order were born.

In 2005, UNESCO proclaimed the “The Mevlevi Sema Ceremony” of Turkey as amongst the Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.

 - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – -

The Sema is practised in the samahane (ritual hall) according to a precisely prescribed symbolic ritual with the dervishes whirling in a circle around their sheikh, who is the only one whirling around his axis. The Sema is performed by spinning on the right foot. The dervishes wear a white gown (symbol of death), a wide black cloak (hırka) (symbol of the grave) and a tall brown hat (kûlah or sikke), symbol of the tombstone.

Sema ceremonies are broken up into four parts which all have their own important meanings.

Naat and Taksim - Naat is the beginning of the ceremony where a solo singer offers praise for the Islamic prophet Muhammad. The first part is finished with taksim(improvisation in free rhythm) of the ney reed flute which symbolizes our separation from God.

Devr-i Veled - During the following Devr-i Veled, the dervishes bow to each other and make a stately procession in single file around the hall. The bow is said to represent the acknowledgement of the Divine breath which has been breathed into all of us. After all the dervishes have done this they kneel and remove their black cloaks.

The Four Salams - The Four Salams are the central part of Sama. The samazens or whirling dervishes are representative of the moon and they spin on the outside (sufi whirling) of the Sheikh who is representative of the sun. They, as previously mentioned, spin on their right foot and additionally, they have their right palm facing upwards towards Heaven and their left hand pointing at the ground. The four salams themselves are representative of the spiritual journey that every believer goes through. The first one is representative of recognition of God, the second one is recognition of the existence in his unity, the third one represents the ecstacy one experiences with total surrender and the fourth one, where the Sheikh joins in the dance, is symbolic of peace of the heart due to Divine unity. After the four salams, this part of the ceremony is concluded with another solo Taksim.

Concluding Prayer - The fourth part of the ceremony is a recitation from the Holy Qu’ran and a prayer by the Sheikh and then the Sema is complete.

 

© Penelope Gan – All Rights Reserved – Sultanahmet Camii, Istanbul, TURKEY

Built between 1609 to 1616 during the rule of Ahmed I, the Sultan Ahmed Mosque (Turkish: Sultanahmet Camii) design is a culmination of two centuries of both Ottoman mosque and Byzantine church development. This is evident in traces of the Byzantine elements visible in its neighbouring Hagia Sophia, applied to the traditional Islamic architecture featuring 6 minarets and a total of 9 domes; one being the main dome.

It earned its popularly known name – Blue Mosque – from the 20,000 plus handmade Iznik (the ancient Nicaea area) ceramic tiles in more than fifty different tulip designs that lines the interior of the mosque at its lower levels. While the lower levels had tiles in the traditional designs, the gallery level is adorned with flamboyant representation of flowers, fruit and cypresses. Although the tiles were purportedly made under the supervision of Iznik master potter Kasap Haci and Baris Efendi of Avanos (now known as Cappadocia), the quality of the tiles differed over time. This was primarily attributed to the fact that the price to be paid for each tile during the construction was fixed by the sultan’s decree without consideration of general increases of the tile prices over time. To meet the Sultan’s decree, the artisan delivered lower quality tiles where colours have faded and changed (i.e. red turning into brown and green into blue, mottled whites) and the glazes have dulled.

Other elements that contributes towards the blue hue of the mosque includes the blue painted walls that dominates the upper level interior and the installation of more than 200 stained glass windows, a gift of the Signoria of Venice to the Sultan. However, most of these windows have now been replaced with poor craftsmanship and of little artistic merit.

Other intriguing feature of the interior of the Blue Mosque that’s worth a mention is the existence of ostrich eggs that are placed in the bubbles of the chandeliers and lamps to avoid cobwebs inside the mosque by repelling spiders, in addition to recycled tiles from the Topkapi Place for the back of the balconies!

Taking over two centuries to complete (784 – 987CE), the Mezquita de Cordoba has accommodated to many spiritual and religious purposes; originating first as a pagan temple, then to be converted to a Visigothic Christian Church, followed by its transition to a mosque by the Umayyad Caliphate with the Islamic conquest of the Visigothic kingdom, only to be transformed to a Roman Catholic church after the Spanish reconquering the area.

As a result, the Mezquita de Cordoba is known by the local inhabitants of Cordoba, Spain as the Mezquita-Catedral which translates to Mosque-Cathedral in English. Likewise, it incorporates an eclectic mix of Moorish and Renaissance architecture with minarets being adapted into cathedral bell towers and gilded prayer niches with Quranic inscriptions sitting alongside Renaissance styled cathedral nave.

Most notable for the giant arches – with 856 columns of jasper, onyx, marble and granite – taken from pieces of previously occupied Roman temples and the Merida amphitheater, the red and white voussoirs of the arches of Mezquita de Cordoba are purported to be a result of inspiration from the Dome of the Rock – a shrine located on the Temple Mount in the Old City of Jerusalem that was completed in 691CE. Expanded and improved extensively by the Umayyad Caliphate, the four stages – which is evident walking through the Mezquita de Cordoba – have resulted in richly gilded prayer niches, a centrally located honeycombed dome with blue tiles finished with stars, a breathtaking mihrab with geometric and flowering designs of floral, stained glass windows, screens of finely carved wood, minarets, colorful mosaics, a courtyard and a staircase and a bridge linking the prayer hall with the Caliph’s quarters.

Alterations to the works of the 4 Caliphs by the Roman Catholic invaders under King Ferdinand III of Castile saw the constructions of Chapels within the mosque, the erection of a cathedral nave right in the middle of Mezquita de Cordoba’s expansive structure and bells attached to minarets to serve as cathedral bell towers.

It is said that the Mezquita de Cordoba’s conversion to a Catholic church – the Catedral de Córdoba – was what saved it from being destroyed and continued to be preserved during the Spanish Inquisition.

The desire of men to convert this coveted structure remains to date with Spanish Muslims continued lobbying with the Roman Catholic church to allow them to pray in the cathedral; of which were rejected on multiple occasions by the Spanish Catholic authorities and the Vatican since the early 2000s. This quest turned into a violent incident in 2010.

.

.

Source: Lonely Planet, Wikipedia and Sacred Destinations

.

.

Marrakesh – famed for Djamaa el Fna, its vibrant main square dubbed the most exhilarating meeting place in the world, Marrakesh which is situated in southwest Morocco also features the landmark symbol in its walled old city (medina): the 800 year old minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque.

The minaret, capped with three golden orbs, not only dominates the Marrakesh skyline but also enhances the mosque’s reputation as a masterpiece of Islamic architecture. It was completed during the rule of Almohad Caliph Yacoub el-Mansour (1184-199) and stands nearly 230ft (77m) high and almost 40 ft (13m) wide.

The city’s character is, however, defined by Djamaa el Fna in the city’s medina square. By the day it is the scene of locals and tourists haggling for bargains with market traders and watching snake charmers.

The souk (or marketplace) bordering the square is the largest in North Africa; its alleyways are crammed with stalls selling carpets, kaftans, embroidered slippers, leather ware, lamps and other Moroccan craft items.

By night the main square is transformed into a mesmerizing  theateric scene of street entertainment of every kind: fire-eating, juggling, singing, acrobatics, story-telling, dancing, magic, drumming, fortune telling and stalls selling traditional medicines or Moroccan dishes of sheep’s brains and eyes, and goats’ testicles sizzling on the pan with smells wafting up to the Moroccan clear cloudless sky.

.

.

]]> http://penelopegan.com/photoblog/2011/07/djamaa-el-fna-and-kautoubia-mosque-at-800-years/feed/ 0 http://penelopegan.com/photoblog/2011/07/ramadhan-djamma-el-fna/ http://penelopegan.com/photoblog/2011/07/ramadhan-djamma-el-fna/#comments Wed, 13 Jul 2011 00:18:20 +0000 ganpenelope http://penelopegan.com/photoblog/?p=1164 © Penelope Gan – All Rights Reserved – Djamaa el Fna, Marrakesh, MOROCCO

Famed for its vibrant atmosphere, colourful lights, dare devil acrobats and antics, spoilt with choices of goods and food, the Djamma el Fna gets livelier after sunset during the Ramadhan month with mouth watering smells wafting up to the Moroccan clear cloudless sky as the pan sizzles.

Although the focus of Ramadhan – the Islamic month of fasting that involves abstaining from food, drink, sexual relations, smoking and other vices between sunrise and sunset – is spiritual, many cultures place a surprising emphasis on food during this holy month. Iftar, the meal at which Muslims break their fast, is highly anticipated with everyone looking forward to the spread of food each evening. At a Moroccan iftar, dates, milk, juices, and sweets are typically served first to provide the sugar surge needed after a day of going without food. This is followed typicaly by Harira – a cheap and hearty lentil and tomato soup – that quickly satisfies hunger and restores energy. Occassionally hard boiled eggs, meat or seafood pastries (briouats), fried fish, and pancakes are also served.

However, with improved economic standings and catering to the tourist, food stores that specialises in more exotic and expensive food such as shrimps, crayfish, squids, fish, chicken, meet and even sheep’s brains and eyes, as well as goats’ testicles out numbers those offering the local staple iftar set meal of dates, mint tea, Harira and sweets such as sellou and chebekia.

- – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - -

Harira Receipe

(serve 6 to 8 people, and follows the pressure cooker method. To adapt cooking times for traditional simmering in a stockpot, read the Tips at the bottom of the page.)

Prep Time: 40 minutes |  Cook Time: 1 hour, 30 minutes |  Total Time: 2 hours, 10 minutes

Ingredients:

• ½ lb. uncooked meat (lamb, beef or chicken), chopped into 1/2” pieces
• several soup bones (optional)
• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1 bunch cilantro (coriander), finely chopped to yield about 1/4 cup
• 1 bunch parsley, finely chopped to yield about 1/4 cup
• 1 or 2 celery stalks with leaves, finely chopped
• 1 large onion, grated
• 1 handful of dry chick peas, soaked and then peeled
• 1 tablespoon smen (optional)
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1 tablespoon ground ginger
• 1 1/2 teaspoons pepper
• 1 tablespoon kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon turmeric or ¼ teaspoon yellow colorant
• 6 large tomatoes (about 2 lb. or 1 kg), peeled, seeded and pureed
• 2 to 3 tbsp dry lentils, picked over and washed
• 3 tablespoons tomato paste, mixed evenly into 1 or 2 cups of water
• 2 to 3 tablespoons uncooked rice OR uncooked broken vermicelli
• 1 cup flour

Preparation:

Step 1 – Ahead of Time

Make sure you have all the ingredients. Do the following before you begin cooking the soup.

1. Soak and skin the chickpeas. (You might want to soak them the night before you cook.)
2. Pick through the lentils and wash them.
3. Peel, seed and puree the tomatoes in a blender or food processor. Or, stew the tomatoes and pass them through a food mill to remove the seeds and skin.
4. Pick the parsley and cilantro leaves from their stems. Small pieces of stem are OK, but discard long, thick pieces with no leaves. Wash the herbs, drain well, and finely chop them by hand or with a food processor.

Assemble the remaining ingredients and follow the steps below.

Step 2 – Brown the Meat

Put the meat, soup bones and oil into a 6-qt. or larger pressure cooker. Over medium heat, cook the meat for a few minutes, stirring to brown all sides.

Step 3 – Make the Stock

Add the cilantro, parsley, celery, onion, chick peas, tomatoes, smen and spices. Stir in 3 cups of water.

Cover tightly, and heat over high heat until pressure is achieved. Reduce the heat to medium, and cook for 20 to 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and release the pressure.

Step 4 – Make the Soup

Add the lentils, tomato paste mixture, and 2 quarts (or about 2 liters) of water to the stock.

Set aside (but don’t add yet), either the rice or vermicelli.

Cover the pot and heat the soup over high heat until pressure is achieved. Reduce the heat to medium and continue cooking.

If adding rice: Cook the soup on pressure for 30 minutes. Release the pressure, and add the rice. Cover, and cook with pressure for an additional 15 minutes.

If adding vermicelli: Cook the soup on pressure for 45 minutes. Release the pressure, and add the vermicelli. Simmer the soup, uncovered, for five to ten minutes or until the vermicelli is plump and cooked.

Step 5 – Thicken the Soup

While the soup is cooking, mix together the 1 cup of flour with 2 cups of water. Set the mixture aside, and stir or whisk it occasionally. The flour will eventually blend with the water. If the mixture is not smooth when you’re ready to use it, pass it through a sieve to remove balls.

Once the rice (or vermicelli) has cooked, taste the soup for seasoning. Add salt or pepper if desired.

Bring the soup to a full simmer. Slowly — and in a thin stream — pour in the flour mixture. Stir constantly and keep the soup simmering so the flour doesn’t stick to the bottom.

You will notice the soup beginning to thicken when you’ve used approximately half the flour mixture. How thick to make harira is your own preference. I like to thicken the broth so that it achieves a cream-like consistency.

Simmer the thickened soup, stirring occasionally, for five to ten minutes to cook off the taste of the flour. Remove the soup from the heat.

- – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - -

Tips for Making Harira

• If the meat had a lot of fat, expect to see some foaming as you simmer the thickened soup. Skim off the foam and discard it.
• As harira cools in the pot, it’s common for a skin to form. Simply stir to blend the skin back into the soup.
• A small wedge of lemon may be served as a garnish; its juice may be squeezed into the bowl of harira.
• When reheating harira, don’t bring it to a boil. Heat over medium heat and stir frequently to avoid lentils sticking to the bottom.
• Preparation Shortcut: Chop your cilantro, parsley and celery together in a food processor or blender. Add the peeled and seeded tomatoes, and blend until well-pureed. Add the onion and process until the onion is reduced to small pieces. Proceed with making the stock.
• Thickening with Egg: In place of flour and water, two or three beaten eggs may be used to thicken harira. (If desired, beat the eggs with 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice.) Add the eggs in a thin stream to the simmering soup, stirring constantly. You will see some cooked strands of eggs in the soup as it thickens.
• Prep and Freeze: If you plan to cook harira frequently, it’s helpful to prep large amounts of key ingredients in advance. Soak and peel chickpeas; drain well before freezing. Chop an ample supply of parsley, cilantro and celery; measure the mixed herbs by soup bowlfuls and freeze. Peel, seed and stew tomatoes; puree and freeze in 1 kg (about 2 lb.) batches.

Traditional Stockpot Method

If you don’t have a pressure cooker, use a 6- or 8-qt. stockpot and adjust the cooking time as follows:

• In Step 2, cover the pot and simmer for one hour.
• In Steps 3 and 4, partially cover the pot and simmer for double the suggested pressure cooking times.
• Proceed with thickening the soup according to the recipe, or try the egg thickening method in the Tips above.

Source: Moroccon Food.com

.

.