.

.

Terms

The whirling dervish is known as a Semazen. Dervish itself means doorway to god or enlightenment. Sufism is derived from the word for a rough, woolen cloak, its material designed to diminish the superficial pleasures of worldly existence. Mevlevis are the order of Sufis that perform the whirling dervish dance, refered to as the Sema. The leader of the group is called the Sheikh; he often stands in the middle of the room, representing the sun, while the other members dance around him in imitation of the cycles of the planets. The repetition of god’s name is the Zikr.

.

Dervish Clothes

Whirling dervishes sport a conical hat and a white shirt and skirt. The skirt is made of billowing material that flows out and around the dancer as they spin. The head gear symbolizes the need to seal off one’s ego in order to connect to God and the universe. The skirt represents a shroud but also the sky, which is revealed as the dancer removes their black cloak and begins the journey towards spiritual enlightenment.

.

© Penelope Gan – All Rights Reserved – The Mevlevi Sema Ceremony, Mevlevi Order, Istanbul, TURKEY

Known more commonly as the Whirling Dervishes due to their famous practice of whirling as a form of remembrance to God (dhikr) in initiating the Sufi path (dervish), the Mevlevi Order  (Persian: مولويه - Molavīyeh) is a Sufi order founded in Konya, Turkey by the followers of Jalal ad-Din Muhammad Balkhi-Rumi, a 13th century Persian poet, theologian and Islamic jurist.

Following his death, the Mawlawi order was founded in 1273 by his successor, Hüsamettin Çelebi. The Mawlawi believe in performing their dhikr in the form of a “dance” and musical ceremony known as the Sema, which involves the whirling, from which the order acquired its nickname. The Sema represents a mystical journey of man’s spiritual ascent through mind and love towards “Perfection”. Turning towards the truth, the follower grows through love, deserts his ego, finds the truth, and arrives at the “Perfect”. He then returns from this spiritual journey as a man who has reached maturity and a greater perfection, able to love and to be of service to the whole of creation.

Rumi has said in reference to Sema:

For them it is the Sema of this world and the other.
Even more for the circle of dancers within the Sema
Who turn and have, in their midst, their own Ka’aba.

The origin of Sema is credited to Rumi where it narrates the story of Rumi walking through the town marketplace one day, when he heard the rhythmic hammering of the goldbeaters. It is believed that Rumi heard the dhikr, “la elaha ella’llah” in Arabic “لا اله الا الله”, or in English, “There is none worthy of worship but Allah(God)“, spoken by the apprentices beating the gold, and was so filled with happiness that he stretched out both of his arms and started spinning in a circle. With that, the practice of Sema and the dervishes of the Mevlevi Order were born.

In 2005, UNESCO proclaimed the “The Mevlevi Sema Ceremony” of Turkey as amongst the Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.

 - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – -

The Sema is practised in the samahane (ritual hall) according to a precisely prescribed symbolic ritual with the dervishes whirling in a circle around their sheikh, who is the only one whirling around his axis. The Sema is performed by spinning on the right foot. The dervishes wear a white gown (symbol of death), a wide black cloak (hırka) (symbol of the grave) and a tall brown hat (kûlah or sikke), symbol of the tombstone.

Sema ceremonies are broken up into four parts which all have their own important meanings.

Naat and Taksim - Naat is the beginning of the ceremony where a solo singer offers praise for the Islamic prophet Muhammad. The first part is finished with taksim(improvisation in free rhythm) of the ney reed flute which symbolizes our separation from God.

Devr-i Veled - During the following Devr-i Veled, the dervishes bow to each other and make a stately procession in single file around the hall. The bow is said to represent the acknowledgement of the Divine breath which has been breathed into all of us. After all the dervishes have done this they kneel and remove their black cloaks.

The Four Salams - The Four Salams are the central part of Sama. The samazens or whirling dervishes are representative of the moon and they spin on the outside (sufi whirling) of the Sheikh who is representative of the sun. They, as previously mentioned, spin on their right foot and additionally, they have their right palm facing upwards towards Heaven and their left hand pointing at the ground. The four salams themselves are representative of the spiritual journey that every believer goes through. The first one is representative of recognition of God, the second one is recognition of the existence in his unity, the third one represents the ecstacy one experiences with total surrender and the fourth one, where the Sheikh joins in the dance, is symbolic of peace of the heart due to Divine unity. After the four salams, this part of the ceremony is concluded with another solo Taksim.

Concluding Prayer - The fourth part of the ceremony is a recitation from the Holy Qu’ran and a prayer by the Sheikh and then the Sema is complete.

 

Marrakesh – famed for Djamaa el Fna, its vibrant main square dubbed the most exhilarating meeting place in the world, Marrakesh which is situated in southwest Morocco also features the landmark symbol in its walled old city (medina): the 800 year old minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque.

The minaret, capped with three golden orbs, not only dominates the Marrakesh skyline but also enhances the mosque’s reputation as a masterpiece of Islamic architecture. It was completed during the rule of Almohad Caliph Yacoub el-Mansour (1184-199) and stands nearly 230ft (77m) high and almost 40 ft (13m) wide.

The city’s character is, however, defined by Djamaa el Fna in the city’s medina square. By the day it is the scene of locals and tourists haggling for bargains with market traders and watching snake charmers.

The souk (or marketplace) bordering the square is the largest in North Africa; its alleyways are crammed with stalls selling carpets, kaftans, embroidered slippers, leather ware, lamps and other Moroccan craft items.

By night the main square is transformed into a mesmerizing  theateric scene of street entertainment of every kind: fire-eating, juggling, singing, acrobatics, story-telling, dancing, magic, drumming, fortune telling and stalls selling traditional medicines or Moroccan dishes of sheep’s brains and eyes, and goats’ testicles sizzling on the pan with smells wafting up to the Moroccan clear cloudless sky.

.

.

]]> http://penelopegan.com/photoblog/2011/07/djamaa-el-fna-and-kautoubia-mosque-at-800-years/feed/ 0 http://penelopegan.com/photoblog/2011/07/ramadhan-djamma-el-fna/ http://penelopegan.com/photoblog/2011/07/ramadhan-djamma-el-fna/#comments Wed, 13 Jul 2011 00:18:20 +0000 ganpenelope http://penelopegan.com/photoblog/?p=1164 © Penelope Gan – All Rights Reserved – Djamaa el Fna, Marrakesh, MOROCCO

Famed for its vibrant atmosphere, colourful lights, dare devil acrobats and antics, spoilt with choices of goods and food, the Djamma el Fna gets livelier after sunset during the Ramadhan month with mouth watering smells wafting up to the Moroccan clear cloudless sky as the pan sizzles.

Although the focus of Ramadhan – the Islamic month of fasting that involves abstaining from food, drink, sexual relations, smoking and other vices between sunrise and sunset – is spiritual, many cultures place a surprising emphasis on food during this holy month. Iftar, the meal at which Muslims break their fast, is highly anticipated with everyone looking forward to the spread of food each evening. At a Moroccan iftar, dates, milk, juices, and sweets are typically served first to provide the sugar surge needed after a day of going without food. This is followed typicaly by Harira – a cheap and hearty lentil and tomato soup – that quickly satisfies hunger and restores energy. Occassionally hard boiled eggs, meat or seafood pastries (briouats), fried fish, and pancakes are also served.

However, with improved economic standings and catering to the tourist, food stores that specialises in more exotic and expensive food such as shrimps, crayfish, squids, fish, chicken, meet and even sheep’s brains and eyes, as well as goats’ testicles out numbers those offering the local staple iftar set meal of dates, mint tea, Harira and sweets such as sellou and chebekia.

- – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - -

Harira Receipe

(serve 6 to 8 people, and follows the pressure cooker method. To adapt cooking times for traditional simmering in a stockpot, read the Tips at the bottom of the page.)

Prep Time: 40 minutes |  Cook Time: 1 hour, 30 minutes |  Total Time: 2 hours, 10 minutes

Ingredients:

• ½ lb. uncooked meat (lamb, beef or chicken), chopped into 1/2” pieces
• several soup bones (optional)
• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1 bunch cilantro (coriander), finely chopped to yield about 1/4 cup
• 1 bunch parsley, finely chopped to yield about 1/4 cup
• 1 or 2 celery stalks with leaves, finely chopped
• 1 large onion, grated
• 1 handful of dry chick peas, soaked and then peeled
• 1 tablespoon smen (optional)
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1 tablespoon ground ginger
• 1 1/2 teaspoons pepper
• 1 tablespoon kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon turmeric or ¼ teaspoon yellow colorant
• 6 large tomatoes (about 2 lb. or 1 kg), peeled, seeded and pureed
• 2 to 3 tbsp dry lentils, picked over and washed
• 3 tablespoons tomato paste, mixed evenly into 1 or 2 cups of water
• 2 to 3 tablespoons uncooked rice OR uncooked broken vermicelli
• 1 cup flour

Preparation:

Step 1 – Ahead of Time

Make sure you have all the ingredients. Do the following before you begin cooking the soup.

1. Soak and skin the chickpeas. (You might want to soak them the night before you cook.)
2. Pick through the lentils and wash them.
3. Peel, seed and puree the tomatoes in a blender or food processor. Or, stew the tomatoes and pass them through a food mill to remove the seeds and skin.
4. Pick the parsley and cilantro leaves from their stems. Small pieces of stem are OK, but discard long, thick pieces with no leaves. Wash the herbs, drain well, and finely chop them by hand or with a food processor.

Assemble the remaining ingredients and follow the steps below.

Step 2 – Brown the Meat

Put the meat, soup bones and oil into a 6-qt. or larger pressure cooker. Over medium heat, cook the meat for a few minutes, stirring to brown all sides.

Step 3 – Make the Stock

Add the cilantro, parsley, celery, onion, chick peas, tomatoes, smen and spices. Stir in 3 cups of water.

Cover tightly, and heat over high heat until pressure is achieved. Reduce the heat to medium, and cook for 20 to 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and release the pressure.

Step 4 – Make the Soup

Add the lentils, tomato paste mixture, and 2 quarts (or about 2 liters) of water to the stock.

Set aside (but don’t add yet), either the rice or vermicelli.

Cover the pot and heat the soup over high heat until pressure is achieved. Reduce the heat to medium and continue cooking.

If adding rice: Cook the soup on pressure for 30 minutes. Release the pressure, and add the rice. Cover, and cook with pressure for an additional 15 minutes.

If adding vermicelli: Cook the soup on pressure for 45 minutes. Release the pressure, and add the vermicelli. Simmer the soup, uncovered, for five to ten minutes or until the vermicelli is plump and cooked.

Step 5 – Thicken the Soup

While the soup is cooking, mix together the 1 cup of flour with 2 cups of water. Set the mixture aside, and stir or whisk it occasionally. The flour will eventually blend with the water. If the mixture is not smooth when you’re ready to use it, pass it through a sieve to remove balls.

Once the rice (or vermicelli) has cooked, taste the soup for seasoning. Add salt or pepper if desired.

Bring the soup to a full simmer. Slowly — and in a thin stream — pour in the flour mixture. Stir constantly and keep the soup simmering so the flour doesn’t stick to the bottom.

You will notice the soup beginning to thicken when you’ve used approximately half the flour mixture. How thick to make harira is your own preference. I like to thicken the broth so that it achieves a cream-like consistency.

Simmer the thickened soup, stirring occasionally, for five to ten minutes to cook off the taste of the flour. Remove the soup from the heat.

- – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - -

Tips for Making Harira

• If the meat had a lot of fat, expect to see some foaming as you simmer the thickened soup. Skim off the foam and discard it.
• As harira cools in the pot, it’s common for a skin to form. Simply stir to blend the skin back into the soup.
• A small wedge of lemon may be served as a garnish; its juice may be squeezed into the bowl of harira.
• When reheating harira, don’t bring it to a boil. Heat over medium heat and stir frequently to avoid lentils sticking to the bottom.
• Preparation Shortcut: Chop your cilantro, parsley and celery together in a food processor or blender. Add the peeled and seeded tomatoes, and blend until well-pureed. Add the onion and process until the onion is reduced to small pieces. Proceed with making the stock.
• Thickening with Egg: In place of flour and water, two or three beaten eggs may be used to thicken harira. (If desired, beat the eggs with 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice.) Add the eggs in a thin stream to the simmering soup, stirring constantly. You will see some cooked strands of eggs in the soup as it thickens.
• Prep and Freeze: If you plan to cook harira frequently, it’s helpful to prep large amounts of key ingredients in advance. Soak and peel chickpeas; drain well before freezing. Chop an ample supply of parsley, cilantro and celery; measure the mixed herbs by soup bowlfuls and freeze. Peel, seed and stew tomatoes; puree and freeze in 1 kg (about 2 lb.) batches.

Traditional Stockpot Method

If you don’t have a pressure cooker, use a 6- or 8-qt. stockpot and adjust the cooking time as follows:

• In Step 2, cover the pot and simmer for one hour.
• In Steps 3 and 4, partially cover the pot and simmer for double the suggested pressure cooking times.
• Proceed with thickening the soup according to the recipe, or try the egg thickening method in the Tips above.

Source: Moroccon Food.com

.

.

© Penelope Gan – All Rights Reserved – A Kinnauras lady, Mandi, Himachal Pradesh, INDIA

- – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - -

Pliny the Elder, Natural History 7. 24(trans. Rackham) (Roman encyclopedia C1st A.D.) :
“Ctesias [Greek historian C5th B.C.] writes that also among a certain race of India the women bear children only once in their life time, and that the children begin to turn grey directly after birth. [N.B. "to turn grey" in Greek meant to become old and wrinked].”

Pliny the Elder, Natural History 7. 28 :
“Crates of Pergamenus [Greek scholar C2nd B.C.] tells of Indians who . . . do not exceed forty years, this tribe adjoining the Macrobi (Long-Livers), whose women bear children only once. Agatharchides records this as well, and also that they live on locusts, and are very swift-footed. Clitarchus [Greek historian C3rd B.C.] gave them the name of Mandi; and Megasthenes [Greek historian C4th B.C.] also assigns them three hundred village, and says that the women bear children at age of seven and old age comes at forty.”

- – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - -

With a rich and varied history, Himachal Pradesh is said to have been inhabited by human beings since the dawn of civilisation. About 2 million years ago, man lived in the foothills of the Bangana valley of Kangra, Sirsa valley of Nalagarh and Markanda valley of Sirmour. These people were believed to be from the Indus valley civilisation, which flourished between 2250 and 1750 B.C., and was responsible for the exodus of the original inhabitants of the Ganga plains up north, in search of peace and preservation of their way of life.

Greek mythology’s references to this is supported by the Vedas which refers to the early inhabitants of Himachal Pradesh as Dasas, Dasyus and Nishadas, with later works calling them Kinnars (Kinners/Kinnauras*), Nagas and Yakshas.

The second phase of settlers to the Himalayan foothills came in the form of Mongoloid people, followed by the third and most important wave of Aryan migrants from Central Asia who laid the foundation of Himachal Pradesh’s culture and history.

Whilst I am no expert of genealogy, anthropology, sociology, evolution or even social, cultural and economic history of tribes or modern day civilisation, I found this coincidence of meeting a Kinnauras family in Mandi valley uncanny which led to some research that has created even more confusion personally. Are we possibly talking about one of the same people who have evolved over the centuries; i.e. the Mandi tribe are now the Kinnauras? You decide.

But if so, why is a Kinnauras family residing in Mandi valley and not in border district of Kinnaur? The Kinnauras today occupy areas of the border districts of Kinnaur and their origins are of dispute: some holding on the believe that they belong to the Kinners of Mahabharata, while others making claims that they are the descendants of the Kirats who were overpowered by the Aryans and thus receded further into the remote Himalayan region.

What’s interesting to note is that the physical appearance of the Kinnauras resembles the Aryans, but there are also some with Mongoloid features with men sporting a very thin growth of mustaches and beard similar to the Tibetans;  supporting the earlier claims documented in both the Greek mythology and Vedas.

.

.

- – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - -

* The Kinnaraus are a pleasant and soft spoken tribe that are involve in agriculture, horticulture, sheep rearing and wool raising. The Kinnaraus male adorns a long coat called the chubba and woolen pajamas known as the chamu sutan, while the women wears a woolen like sari called Dhoru. Both sexes adorns simple woolen caps called Thapang and protect their feet with shoes made from wool and goat hair.

Marriage alliances amongst the Kinnaraus are based either on caste or on the degree of the relationship. Polyandry is prevalent with the Kinnaraus, where it is common for all the brothers in one family to marry a single girl. Termed the Pandava marriage, such customs is purported to have left many unmarried women converting to a Buddhist monk or Jomo.

Buddhism, Hinduism and a mixture of both is practiced where animal sacrifice remains a common part of the religious rituals. Their dead are disposed in one of the three methods: drowning (dubhant), cremation (phukant), and eating by vultures and birds (bhakant) – an old tradition of Tibet also known as Sky Burial.

I’ve met this man twice now. Always at the same spot, opposite the snake charmer. Separate trades; a flute seller and a snake charmer and yet when you hear them blow their lungs out in an indescript melody on two different (but similar) musical instruments, you’d think they were competitors competing for both the throng of tourists’ attention and that of the snake.

The fact is snake charming is a practice of pretending to hypnotise a snake by playing an instrument, typically one made from a gourd known as a been or pungi. Regardless of instrument used or the quality of the melody produced, the snake does not react to the tune and is unable to hear! What appears to be a response to the musician’s tune with the snake emerging from its container and extending its hood for cobra is a normal defensive reaction of the snake startled by the change of its darkened environment to one that is bright with the removal of the container’s lid. It’s swaying movements which appears as if it were hypnotised is a reaction towards the vibration it feels from the deliberate swaying movement of the snake charmer’s instrument and tapping of his feet.

Taking advantage of the snake’s timid nature, snake charmers sit just out of the snake’s striking range of about a third of the cobra’s body length and amazes onlookers by kissing its head as cobras are incapable of attacking things above them. Understanding this creatures habits and keeping them groggy and lethagic in dark, cool containers, snake charmers are also trained in handling methods and arm themselves with rudimentary knowledge of treating snakebites.

Though this holds true, in some extreme cases of precautions, snake charmers are known to removing the creature’s fangs or venom glands, or even sewing the snake’s mouth shut. This amongst other treatment to the creature have raised the brows of Animal Rights Protection groups.

Having originated from Ancient Egypt with the practice extending throughout Southeast Asia, the Middle East and Northern Africa, snake charming is today in danger of dying out due to a variety of factors including pressures by Animal Rights Protection groups to governmental law enforcement such as the 1972 law in India that bans the ownership of snakes; though enforcement remains questionable.

.

.

.

Iftar (Arabic: إفطار‎) is a meal eaten after Maghrib (sunset) during Sawm, the fasting which occurs during the holy Islamic month of Ramadan. By tradition, all able-bodied Muslims who are not traveling participate in Sawm, although children who have not yet experienced puberty are not required to fast. The Sawm fast during Ramadam is intended to teach self restraint, which is viewed as a virtue by many Muslims.

One of the religious observances of Ramadan, Iftar is often done as a community, with people gathering to break their fast together. In large Muslim communities Iftar is signaled with the call of prayer or through formal telecasts, where Muslim will haste to commune with their families and friends to have Iftar.

Hadhrat Sahal (Radhiallaahu Anhu) narrates that the holy Prophet (sallallaahu alayhi wasallam) said:

“The people will remain prosperous so long as they hasten in breaking their fast (at the time of Iftaar).”

Bukhari

Hadhrat Abu Hurayra (Radhiallaahu Anhu) narrates that the holy Prophet (sallallaahu alayhi wasallam) said:

“Allah Ta’ala said, ‘The most beloved of my servants in my sight are those who hasten when breaking fast’.”

Tirmidhi

When breaking the fast prayers are recited;

اللَّهُمَّ اِنِّى لَكَ صُمْتُ وَبِكَ امنْتُ [وَعَلَيْكَ تَوَكَّلْتُ] وَعَلَى رِزْقِكَ اَفْطَرْتُ

O Allah! I fasted for You and I believe in You [and I put my trust in You] and I break my fast with Your sustenance.

["wa ‘alayka tawakkaltu" is quoted in some books of knowledge - but not all, hence it is in brackets]

Abu Dawud

Transliteration:
Allahumma Inni laka sumtu wa bika amantu [wa alayka tawakkalto] wa ‘ala rizqika aftartu

Traditionally a date is the first thing to be consumed when the fast is broken, and in the absence of one, water is drank. Food consume during Iftar defers from countries to countries.

Hadhrat Salman bin Amir (Radhiallaahu Anhu) narrates that the holy Prophet (sallallaahu alayhi wasallam) said:

“When one of you breaks his fast he should do so with dates for they provide blessing, but if he cannot get any he should break his fast with water for it is purifying.”

Mishkat

]]> http://penelopegan.com/photoblog/2011/04/make-haste-for-iftar/feed/ 0 http://penelopegan.com/photoblog/2011/03/paal-kudam-thaipusam/ http://penelopegan.com/photoblog/2011/03/paal-kudam-thaipusam/#comments Wed, 30 Mar 2011 00:18:36 +0000 ganpenelope http://penelopegan.com/photoblog/?p=1240

© Penelope Gan – All Rights Reserved – Kavadi Bearer in Trance, Batu Caves, Selangor, MALAYSIA

Hindus, young and old partake in the yearly event of Thaipusam that typically falls in January or February to fulfill their vows. This is done in many forms of sacrifices depending on the gravity of the devotee’s illness or wishes; from carrying elaborate kavadi (mini chariot) or impale themselves with skewers and hooks to simple rituals such as paal kudam (milk offerings) carried in a kumbha (vessel) over the head. It is believed that those who perform the  paal kudam will have to repeat this act of penance for three consecutive years before receiving their wishes from Lord Subramaniam. Others however make the offering of milk purely as a symbolism of cleansing their mind and soul.

.

Women and children dressed in yellow saffron clothing typically performs the paal kudam as children are not allowed to perform penance that requires body piercing. As they age, usually as a teenager, they will be allowed to impale their cheeks with the vel (skewer / lance) or carry simple wooden kavadi.

.

Upon reaching the temple – typically on a hill – devotees offer the pot of milk to the presiding priest to be poured over the statue of Lord Muruga.

Similar to kavadi bearers, devotees that offers pot of milk will have to prepare their body, mind and soul with strict religious rituals for days leading up to Thaipusam.

.

..

A trance-like condition or transcendence is a state of being that surpasses physical existence and in one form is also independent of it. Typically this trance state is manifested in prayer, séance, meditation and paranormal “visions”.

People of varying faiths throughout the world are said to have experienced trance from different perspectives; physically, mentally and emotionally - with many textual references supporting such claims such as the Bible (Matthew 8:28-34), the Torah (Genesis 6:4) and the Qu’ran (Verse 275).

Even today, void of any scientific explanation, people are known to go into a trance be it a demonic possession, voodoo, speaking in tongue experience to deep meditative state. The condition in which a person gets to a transcendence state remains unclear and varied according to religious practices.

Devotees of Lord Murugan goes to the extremes and lengths of exhibiting devotion by carrying pots of milk or “pal kudam” on their heads, carrying elaborate frameworks on their shoulders called “kavadis” that have long chains hanging down with hooks at the end that are hooked through the skins on their backs, piercing skewers or “vels” through their tongues and cheeks, to pulling heavy chariots with hooks and chains attached to their backs are said to experience no pain as they are in a spiritual and devotional trance that is induced by chanting, drumming and incense.

Centered around faith, endurance and penance, devotees emerging from the trance-like condition quotes the experience as:

The first time I had the experience I just felt like I had a strong light coming into me.

You feel that somebody is beside you and taking care of you.

.

.

]]> http://penelopegan.com/photoblog/2011/03/religion-and-trance/feed/ 0 http://penelopegan.com/photoblog/2011/03/para-bhakti-on-thaipusam/ http://penelopegan.com/photoblog/2011/03/para-bhakti-on-thaipusam/#comments Wed, 02 Mar 2011 00:18:11 +0000 ganpenelope http://penelopegan.com/photoblog/?p=1037

© Penelope Gan – All Rights Reserved – Kavadi Bearer, Batu Caves, Selangor, MALAYSIA

.

.