Hawa Mahal – Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh’s ‘Purdah’

Penelope Gan Hawa Mahal Jaipur_950© Penelope Gan – All Rights Reserved – Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, INDIA

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A poignant landmark of Jaipur that is world famous, the Hawa Mahal (Hindi: हवा महल, translation: “Palace of Winds”) was constructed in 1799 by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh. Design was commissioned to Lal Chand Usta who not only showcased Rajputana architecture at its best while incorporating elements of Mughal architecture, but ensured that the hostile climate and weather of Rajasthan was taken care off. The outcome was a unique five-storey pyramidal shaped structure with an exterior that is akin to the honeycomb of a beehive with over 950 small windows called jharokhas that are decorated with intricate lattice work of lotus and floral patterns, domed canopies, fluted pillars and arches.

At a height of 50 feet (15 metres), the Hawa Mahal is by no means a typical palace. The top three floors of the structure have a dimension of only one room width while the first and second floors have patios in front of them, facing the stark and plain rear side of the ‘honeycomb’ structure. Viewed from the side, the Hawa Mahal appears to be no more than a ‘wall’ and gives the impression of it being uncompleted due to the lack of ornamentation in the inner face of the rear side of the building and the few chambers built of pillars and corridors on a need basis.

Thus, the Hawa Mahal is believed to have built by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh as a summer retreat due to the cooling effect in the chambers created with breeze passing through the small windows of the façade that is enhanced by the fountains provided at the centre of each of the chambers.

Built of red and pink sandstone that absorbs heat, the palace is also believed to be deliberately situated on the main thoroughfare in the heart of Jaipur’s business centre by Lal Chand Usta (who was also the planner of Jaipur City; then considered one of the best-planned cities in India) and intentionally extended to the women’s chambers (Zenana – the chambers of the harem). This enabled the women belonging to the Royal Family who were required to don a veil or ‘purdah’, to be screened by the intricate windows and balconies while enjoying the Seredeori Bazaar that resembles avenues of Paris in its heydays, green valleys and mountains, Amber Fort, the Thar desert and the daily processions and street activities.

Being part of the City Palace, the Hawa Mahal remains the most popular, photographed and studied section of the palace … perhaps like me, they too are reliving history in their imaginations, trying to capture a glimpse of one of Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh’s beauties observing freedom in style and luxurious comforts but nonetheless trapped behind strict screened exclusivity.

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